CLEARCOAT · THE FINISH
SNAP CLEAR COAT
Germa-Tech Snap Clear Coat is engineered to snap: bake, cool, and the outer layer hardens — de-nib and polish in ONE HOUR. Jobs leave the workshop faster; built for high-volume shops. A…
SCAN FOR THE FULL RANGE,
APPLICATION GUIDES & VIDEOS
germatech.com.au
TDS v2.3 · ISSUE 02.09.2026
SUPERSEDES 10.2023
REVIEW DUE 07.2028
2:1 — NO REDUCER
BY VOLUME
2 hours
23 °C · Use the mixture within the POT LIFE stated on this sheet.
16-18 s (Ford Cup DIN 4, 23 °C)
GRAVITY 1.3 mm
HVLP 1.8-2.0 bar · RP 2.0-2.5 bar
2.5 coats (1 light tack coat + 2 solid coats) or 2 full coats (can be…
see the detail below
40-60 µm total
MAXIMUM 60 µm
At 20 °C, 2-3 minutes between two wet coats (max 2 coats)*
*ADJUST FOR THE DAY'S TEMPERATURE
At 20 °C, 15-20 minutes before baking*
SKIP THIS AND YOU GET SOLVENT POP
30 minutes / 60 minutes
60 °C METAL TEMPERATURE
10 Hours / 16 - 24 hours
23 °C
01SUITABLE SUBSTRATES
02SURFACE PREPARATION
Clean the surface with Germa-Tech Tack Cloth to remove dust and particles from the surface.
03MIXING — MATCH THE SPEED TO THE WEATHER
COLD & DAMP · BELOW 15 °CDo not air dry — bake. Solvent will not leave the film at these temperatures and you get die-back, soft film and blush. Fast hardener, fast reducer.
HOT · ABOVE 30 °CSlow hardener and slow reducer. Flash-off shortens — dry spray, poor flow and mottling in metallics are what a standard system gives you through a hot afternoon.
HUMID · ABOVE 80% RHBlushing risk. Add Retarder Solvent or move to the slow reducer, and do not shorten the flash. Moisture pulled into the film as it chills is what turns it milky.
| TEMPERATURE | HARDENER |
|---|
| < 18 °C | Fast |
| 18 - 30 °C | Standard |
| > 30 °C | Slow |
| Ratio by volume | 2:1 — NO REDUCER |
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| Spray viscosity | 16-18 s (Ford Cup DIN 4, 23 °C) |
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| Pot life | 2 hours at 23 °C (Use the mixture within the POT LIFE stated on this sheet.) |
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| Notes | Close the hardener container immediately after use. |
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BEFORE YOU START — THE SYSTEM IS THE PROCESSGerma-Tech abrasives and ancillary products are graded and tested for compatibility with this product and the process on this sheet — that control is what makes any problem on the job assessable and fixable. Once a non-Germa-Tech product has been used at any step, what actually touched the panel can no longer be verified, and issues that arise cannot be fairly assessed — by us or by anyone. Use the system through the whole process, and if something on this sheet does not fit the job,
talk to us before you spray. Refer to the
GERMA-TECH APPLICATION STANDARD.
04APPLICATION
| Gun — gravity feed | 1.3 mm |
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| Pressure — HVLP | 1.8-2.0 bar |
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| Pressure — RP | 2.0-2.5 bar |
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| Coats | 2.5 coats (1 light tack coat + 2 solid coats) or 2 full coats (can be applied either way) |
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| Flash-off between coats | At 20 °C, 2-3 minutes between two wet coats (max 2 coats) |
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| Flash-off before bake | At 20 °C, 15-20 minutes before baking |
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| Dry film build | 40-60 µm total |
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| Maximum film build | 60 µm of this product |
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05DRYING & CURING
THE SNAP PRINCIPLE — ENGINEERED FOR ONE-HOUR TURNAROUNDOnce baked and brought back to temperature, the cooling of the coating
“snaps” the outer layer — a deliberately engineered harder top surface. That snap is what lets this clear be de-nibbed and polished within
ONE HOUR of cooling, where a conventional clear needs overnight. Jobs are polished and out of the workshop faster — a unique engineered design, built for high-volume shops.
▶ Watch the snap in practice.
| TEMPERATURE | DUST FREE | POLISH / FULL |
|---|
| Below 15 °C | — | Recommend Full Bake |
| 23 °C | 10 Hours | 16 - 24 hours |
| 60 °C | 30 minutes | 60 minutes |
BAKE TEMPERATURE IS METAL TEMPERATUREBake time starts when the panel reaches temperature, not when the door shuts. A cold panel in a 60 °C booth takes roughly ten minutes to get there — add that to the schedule or the film is under-cured. Ensure bake times commence from when the oven reaches temperature of 60 °C and not before. Dry times are greatly impacted by the thickness of the coating and the ambient air temperature when applying. When temperatures are below 23 °C adjust drying times or increase baking times accordingly.
06COATING THICKNESS — WHERE THIS SITS IN THE STACK
THIS PRODUCT ▶
40-60 µm total
Sealer / wet-on-wet
25-35 µm
2K primer surfacer
50-80 µm
Body filler
shaped back — not film
SUBSTRATE
bare steel / prepared panel
FULL BUILD
170-260 µm of 300
Read it like the panel: substrate at the bottom, clear on top. Faded rows are the rest of the system at its normal build. See the Coating Thickness Guide.
MAXIMUM 60 µm of this product — THE RED LINE ON THIS PRODUCT'S ROWPast that the film cannot get its solvent out: solvent pop, die-back, a soft film that never fully hardens, and cracking later. Modern polyurethane is a low-build system: less is better. Three thin coats do not fix what two correct coats did — they add microns and take the film past the limit. The red line on the FULL BUILD row is the 300 µm whole-panel ceiling — every layer added together.
07RECOAT & REWORK
| Recoat — this product over itself | RECOAT WINDOW — 15 minutes at 20 °C panel temperature from application, IF THE JOB IS NOT BAKED. Baking closes the window: after any bake cycle there is NO recoat window — abrade before recoating (see below). Flash-off is the MINIMUM time between coats; the 15-minute window is the MAXIMUM, and it moves with panel temperature — hotter closes sooner. |
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| Over the previous coat | Basecoat → clear: allow 10-15 minutes air-dry, then spray clear at once — within 1 HOUR at 20 °C of applying the basecoat, all colours alike. Past 1 hour, scuff and re-apply basecoat before clearing. Cure-limited — heat shortens the window. Waterborne basecoat → clear: apply clear after the film turns matt; must force dry the basecoat before clearing (60 °C, 5-10 min). Timing is humidity-driven, not temperature-driven — a maximum window is still to be ruled. 2K colour → clear: sand first, ALWAYS — lightly sand the colour before applying clear regardless of elapsed time, and do not sand and recoat finished surfaces without baking. |
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| Polishing / de-nibbing | Allow 15 minutes self cooling after bake then wet 2000 grit & polish |
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HOW EACH COAT BONDS — WHY EVERY WINDOW ON THIS SHEET CLOSESThe whole repair is designed as
one system applied within one overall time frame: the primer is dried and sanded, but from colour onward it is a concurrent, same-day process — and every window on this sheet exists to keep you inside it. Within its window the next coat fuses chemically with the film beneath; past it, the film has cured and adhesion must be made mechanically — abrade, degrease, recoat. Heat closes windows sooner: cure runs on temperature, not the clock. Straying from the timed system — jobs interrupted, held over, stretched — is where the problems start. Full explanation in the
GERMA-TECH APPLICATION STANDARD.
If in doubt, abrade. IF YOU MISS THE RECOAT WINDOWOnce the film has cured past its recoat window, do not put another coat straight over it — the new coat sits on the surface and lets go at the interface. Abrade the whole area first (P800 wet or a grey abrasive pad), degrease, tack off, then recoat.
SANDING A CLEAR THAT IS STILL CURINGA 2K polyurethane clear is polishable in a day but takes up to 12 weeks to reach full cure — under the skin the film stays soft for weeks. When de-nibbing or flatting, work with care: a soft film cuts faster than a cured one, and it is easy to break through the clear into the basecoat, which turns a nib into a repaint. After any sanding, give the panel a light bake before recoating or polishing — sanding opens the surface of a part-cured film, and coating over it unbaked is the classic recipe for a fry-up: solvent attack lifting the soft layer beneath. Do not sand and recoat finished surfaces without baking.
08DENIB & POLISH GUIDE — STEPS, GRITS & ABRASIVES
| Step | Grit | What you are doing | Germa-Tech abrasives — examples by part number |
|---|
| 1 · Cure first | — | Polishable in a day, fully cured in up to 12 weeks — the film under the skin is still soft. SNAP CLEAR is the exception to overnight: bake, then let the panel COOL — the snap of the outer layer on cooling gives a harder top surface, and de-nib and polish can start within ONE HOUR of cooling (see THE SNAP PRINCIPLE above). After any heavier sanding, a light re-bake before polish still applies. | — |
| 2 · Denib | P1500 spot | Isolate the nib and work the nib only — not the panel around it. | TUNGSTEN DENIB BLOCK (PB041) · ORBIT 75 mm P1500 spot disc (GN751500) |
| 3 · Refine | P1500 → P2000 | Take the denib scratch out and flat any texture. Wet by hand or dry on fine film discs. Never jump a stage. | GTEC wet & dry 1500 (A208-10) · 2000 (A209-10) · ORBIT film 150 mm P1500 (MF6-P1500-100N) · P2000 (MF6-P2000-100N) |
| 4 · Finish sand | 3000 → 5000 | Napping discs take the P2000 scratch to polish-ready — this stage halves compounding time and is what kills swirl on dark colours. | NAPPING 75 mm 3000 (A408DM1-3000) · 5000 (A408DM1-5000) · 150 mm 3000 (A408DM2-3000) · 5000 (A408DM2-5000) |
| 5 · Compound | cutting compound | Cutting compound on a cutting pad. Low speed, light pressure, keep the head moving — heat is the enemy of a young film. | Cutting pads: 6" (A903-2) · 3" (A904-2) · 75 mm yellow (A905-1) |
| 6 · Polish | finishing polish | Finishing polish on a soft foam pad, then a clean microfibre. Edges and swages by hand. | Foam pads: 6" (A903) · green soft (A905-3) · black final (A905-4 / A906-4) |
WHY 3000 AND 5000 EXISTCompound is an abrasive too — it just has no number on the box. Going from P2000 straight to compound forces the compound to do sanding work: more heat, more time on the panel, and the fine scratch that comes back as swirl once the film hardens. The 3000/5000 napping stage finishes the sanding with GRADED abrasive, so the compound only has to gloss. On blacks and dark colours it is the difference between polished and hologrammed.
DO NOT BREAK THROUGHA soft film cuts faster than a cured one. De-nib with the smallest tool that does the job, check your progress constantly, and stay off edges and swage lines — breaking through the clear into the basecoat turns a nib into a repaint.
THESE STEPS ARE A WARRANTY CONDITIONFollowing the steps and grits above — with
Germa-Tech abrasives — is a condition of product warranty, not a suggestion. P-grades are only comparable within a controlled range: a recent claim traced to an ungraded brand’s “P320” that cut like a true P240, leaving scratch in the primer that showed through the finished clear. The part numbers above are graded and tested for compatibility with this product and this process — which is what makes a fault assessable: once non-Germa-Tech product has been used, what touched the panel can no longer be verified, and issues arising cannot be fairly assessed. Refer to the
GERMA-TECH APPLICATION STANDARD.
09PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
| Coverage | about 4.6-5.5 m²/L in practice (8.4 m²/L theoretical at 50 µm) Estimate, not a measurement. Indicative coverage at 50 µm dry film thickness, assuming 100% transfer efficiency. Real-world coverage is lower — spray guns lose material as overspray. Allow 55-65% of the theoretical figure. |
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| Solids content | Solid content: 49% as mixed · 43% retained after application (manufacturer comparison, 10.2022) |
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| VOC content | 229 g/l (clear component as supplied, Canada/USA weight-per-volume method — manufacturer's figure; MS-based, ruled 01.09.2026) |
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| Density | approx. 0.97 (relative density, water = 1) — estimated from the Safety Data Sheet; not separately measured |
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| Gloss | Gloss 95.7 · DOI 91 — distinctness of image: higher means sharper reflections in the finish; lower DOI reads as orange peel. Same product data as MS Clear — Snap is the MS clear in the snap kit. |
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| Equipment cleaning | Clean guns and equipment immediately after use with gun wash or a solvent cleaner. Never let mixed 2K product start to cure in the gun — once it kicks, no solvent will save it. |
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10STORAGE, SHELF LIFE & PACKS
| Storage life (unopened) | Up to 36 months unopened — SUBJECT TO correct storage: a cool, dry place below 20 °C, out of direct sun. Heat is the biggest killer of paint in the tin: stock stored or transported in hot vehicles, tin sheds, shipping containers or direct sunlight loses life fast whatever the date on the tin, and that is where most premature failures start. Storage life is an optimal guide, not a promise that survives a hot shed. |
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| Once the seal is broken | Once the seal is broken the clock starts, and how you store it sets the pace. This product: 14 DAYS once the seal is broken, then discard.
All hardeners: 14 days once opened — then discard. Hardener is sealed without air; the moment air enters it starts to deteriorate. A part-used tin resealed tight lasts the 14 days; a loose lid does not. |
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| Storage | Store indoors in a cool, dry place below 20 °C, out of direct sunlight, with the lid sealed tight after every use. Never store or transport in heat — not in a tin shed, a shipping container, a hot van or a sunlit rack. |
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| Pack sizes | 1U4L |
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11PRODUCT CODES
| CODE | WHAT IT IS | PACK SIZE |
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| No product code is printed on the source sheet — this product needs a code assigned before the sheet is published. |
Stated on the source sheet without a code: Hardener: Fast · Hardener: Standard · Hardener: Slow · Kit: SNAP high solid snap clear kit
COMPLETE KIT5 LT SNAP CLEAR · 2.5 LT HARDENER
12WHERE IT SITS IN THE SYSTEM
BARESUBSTRATE
›
EPOXYPRIMER
›
FILLER
›
2K PRIMERSURFACER
›
SEALERWET-ON-WET
›
COLOUR
›
CLEAR
The highlighted step is where this product sits in the repair. Ancillaries support every step.
13STANDARD NOTES — THE SAME ON EVERY SHEET IN THIS SET
- Below 15 °C, air drying at ambient temperature is not recommended — allow a full bake at 60 °C metal temperature. SN1 · ALL BAKEABLE SPRAYED PRODUCTS
- Mix to the stated ratio and use the mix within its pot life. Only use Germa-Tech hardener and reducer — never interchange with another brand. SN2 · ALL MIXED 2K
- At low humidity, a flash-off of 2-3 minutes between coats helps achieve a smooth film. SN3 · ALL SOLVENT-SPRAYED
- Above 30 °C ambient, add Retarder Solvent or move to the slow reducer to avoid blushing — refer to the Retarder Solvent TDS. SN4 · ALL SOLVENT-SPRAYED
- In the overspray area between new and existing finish, apply Thinner SRA directly to achieve an invisible transition. SN5 · CLEARS & COLOUR
- Fisheyes during application: add 0.5-1% Anti Silicon to the remaining paint and respray the affected area. SN6 · ALL SOLVENT-SPRAYED
- Total coating thickness on the panel — every layer together — must not exceed 300 µm. Refer to the Germa-Tech Coating Thickness Guide. SN7 · ALL FILM-BUILDING
- Germa-Tech polyurethane takes up to 12 weeks to fully cure. When reworking or sanding imperfections, take care not to break through the clear into the exposed basecoat — reapplication directly onto sublayers can cause product reactions. Sand imperfections with P1500 working to P3000, then polish. SN8 · ALL POLYURETHANE (ISOCYANATE)
- Do not dry in direct sunlight — panel temperatures in direct sun can exceed 70 °C. Allow 24 hours or a full bake. SN9 · ALL BAKEABLE SPRAYED PRODUCTS
- Germa-Tech products are designed to work as a system — fillers, primers, basecoat, clears, hardeners, reducers, abrasives and ancillaries — each graded and tested for compatibility with the products and processes on this sheet. Performance is only assured within the system, and a fault is only assessable within it: once non-Germa-Tech product has been used in the process, what touched the panel can no longer be verified. SN10 · ALL PRODUCTS
- Cracking over blacks and dark colours is almost always thermal movement in an over-applied basecoat underneath — not a clear coat fault. Confirm the basecoat film build stayed inside the Coating Thickness Guide before blaming the clear. SN12 · CLEARCOATS
- *Flash-off times are measured at the stated temperature and MUST be adjusted for the day: colder than stated = LONGER flash, warmer = shorter. In winter, shops painting below 23 °C routinely under-flash — solvent is still in the film when the next coat lands. Below 15 °C, extended flash and air dry are not enough: bake the job. SN13 · ALL PRODUCTS WITH A FLASH-OFF
- TWO APPLICATION TECHNIQUES — BOTH CORRECT ON THIS PRODUCT. (1) 2.5 COATS: one light tack coat, let it flash, then 2 solid coats — the tack coat sets adhesion and control. (2) 2 FULL COATS: two even, fully wet coats with a complete flash-off between them — no tack coat. A FULL COAT is what some manufacturers call a SOLID COAT or a WET COAT: applied wet and even to full coverage in one pass, not a dust or drop coat. Use whichever suits the job and the painter — the film build limit, flash-off times and the recoat window on this sheet apply equally to both. The technique changes how the film is built, never how much film goes on. SN15 · TWO SPRAY TECHNIQUES
Standard inclusions are controlled: each note applies to every product in its named set, enforced at build. They cannot drift onto some sheets and off others.
14PRODUCT-SPECIFIC NOTES
- FLASH OFF 2-3 MIN BETWEEN 2 WET COATS (MAX 2 COATS)
- FLASH OFF 15-20 MIN BEFORE BAKE (AT 23 DEGREES CELSIUS)
- BAKE 30 MIN @ 60 DEGREES CELSIUS
- ALLOW 15 MINUTES SELF COOLING AFTER BAKE THEN WET 2000 GRIT & POLISH
- Humidity affects clear coat components so the application equipment should be absolutely dry.
- Close the hardener container immediately after use.
- Drying times can be prolonged if humidity decreases.
- Air-Drying Time: Allow 10-15 minutes air drying time before force drying.
WARNINGS CARRIED FORWARD FROM THE PREVIOUS SHEETA flash of is required between each coat, flash off time should be adjusted +/- depending on air temperature. Fast and Slow hardeners and reducers can be used in extreme cold or extreme heat.
A flash time of 15-20 min is required before commencing the bake.
AMBIENT TEMPERATURE — WHY EVERY TIME ON THIS SHEET MOVESEvery time on this sheet — flash-off, drying, pot life, the recoat window — is quoted at 20-23 °C, and every one of them moves with temperature, because the two things that set them, solvent evaporation and chemical cure, are both driven by heat. As a working rule cure rate roughly doubles for every 10 °C rise: at 30 °C the times run at about half; at 15 °C they stretch to nearly half speed. Judge by panel temperature, not air temperature — a panel in sun or fresh out of the booth is far hotter than the shed.
HOT WEATHER (above 30 °C): everything shortens. Flash-off comes down, pot life comes down, and the recoat window closes early. Move to the SLOW hardener and slow or extra-slow reducer so the film has time to flow and release solvent — spraying standard speeds in heat is the fast road to dry spray and solvent boil.
COLD WEATHER (below 20 °C): everything stretches. Flash-off gets LONGER — the most common winter mistake is coating over a film that looks flashed but has not released its solvent, which traps it under the next coat and comes back as fry-up, dieback or runs. Move to the FAST hardener, and extend every flash. Below 15 °C standard 2K cure effectively stalls — bake the job, or wait for heat. Cold does not extend the recoat window in proportion either: contamination, moisture and flash rust run on the clock regardless of temperature.
15GOOD TO KNOW — WHAT WE GET CALLED ABOUT
- Two wet coats maximum, 2-3 minutes flash between them.
- 10-15 minutes air dry before force drying, then 15-20 minutes flash before the bake.
- Bake 30 minutes at 60 °C, self-cool 15 minutes, then wet 2000 grit and polish.
- Humidity attacks the components - gun and lines must be dry, and close the hardener straight after use.
- Drying times stretch out when humidity drops - don't rush the cycle.
16TROUBLESHOOTING
| DEFECT | WHAT YOU SEE | WHY IT HAPPENED | FIX |
|---|
Thermal cracking over heavy basecoat | Cracking or crazing in the clear, typically appearing days or weeks after the job, almost always on blacks and dark colours, often after the vehicle has sat in the sun. | Too much total basecoat film — often from using basecoat as a ground coat under the colour. Any ground coat forms part of the 2-3 coat maximum and the film build limit; it does not get its own allowance. The overloaded basecoat dries late and keeps moving under the cured clear, and dark colours soak up heat — the heavy film expands and contracts at a different rate to the clear until the clear delaminates or cracks. It is a film-build failure underneath, not a clear coat fault. | There is no rescue coat — the affected panels must be sanded back past the failed film (usually to primer), refinished at correct film builds and properly flashed. |
Hardener bloom and moisture-struck hardener | hardener goes cloudy, thick or crystalline in the tin, or the clear comes out hazy and slow with tiny bubbles in cold damp weather | isocyanate hardener reacting with moisture - the tin left open, damp air lines or a wet gun, or cold humid conditions during application | discard hardener that has gone cloudy, crystalline or gassy - it will not cure the film; re-mix from fresh material and, if the panel is already sprayed, cure it out, sand back and refinish |
Blushing | a milky, hazy or white cast through the film, worst in hot or humid weather and on fast-drying work | solvent flashing off so fast it chills the film and pulls moisture out of the air into it - hot shop, high humidity, or a reducer or hardener that is too fast for the day | while wet, a coat with retarder in it will often pull it back; once cured, sand the affected film back and refinish with the correct reducer speed |
Solvent pop | small open craters or burst blisters through the film, usually only obvious after the bake or once the panel has cooled | solvent trapped under a skinned-over film - flash time cut short, coats laid on too heavy, too many coats, or the panel put into the bake before the final flash was done | let the film cure right out, then sand the popped area back to a sound film and refinish; if it has gone through to the undercoat, sand back to the undercoat, re-prime and refinish |
Die-back and gloss loss | the finish looks right coming out of the booth and then dulls off over the next hours or days | polished or handled before the film had cured, film built too heavy, flash between coats too short, wrong reducer or hardener for conditions, or poor booth air movement | let it cure, then compound and polish; if the gloss will not come up, sand and respray |
Dirt and dust inclusion | hard specks sitting in or under the cured film, felt with the back of the hand before they are seen | dust pulled in during application - panel not tacked off, static on plastic parts, dirty booth filters, contaminated air, overalls or gun, or crystallised additive poured straight from the tin | surface nibs come out after cure with P1500 working to P3000 then polish; anything embedded through the film has to be sanded and refinished |
Water spotting | dull rings or spots where water droplets have sat and dried on the finish, most often on a fresh job | water landing on a film that has not fully cured, washing in direct sun, or a car put out in the weather before the film has hardened | compound and polish; if the marks have etched in, sand P1500 to P3000 and polish, or sand and refinish |
Soft film and slow cure | the film stays soft, marks under a fingernail or a mask edge, clogs the paper when sanded and will not polish up | wrong or short-measured hardener, mixing beyond pot life, spraying too cold, bake cut short or started before the flash was finished, or a drying additive used where a hardener is needed | give it a full bake cycle and re-check; if it is still soft the film has to come off back to a sound layer and be redone with the correct mix |
AUSTRALIAN CONDITIONSAbove 30 °C ambient, move to the slow hardener and slow reducer and expect flash-off to shorten — dry spray and blushing are what a standard system gives you through a hot afternoon. Below 15 °C, air drying is not recommended: bake. In coastal and high-UV areas do not shortcut the epoxy step on bare metal.
17HEALTH & SAFETY
ISOCYANATE — AIR-SUPPLIED RESPIRATOR REQUIREDThe hardener for this product contains isocyanate. Spray only in a booth complying with AS/NZS 4114:2020, using
air-supplied respiratory protection — a cartridge respirator is not adequate protection against isocyanate mist. Workers exposed to isocyanates require health monitoring under the model WHS Regulations (Schedule 14) and equivalent state legislation. Refer to the Safe Work Australia
Model Code of Practice: Spray painting and powder coating.
Read the Safety Data Sheet before use. REVISION HISTORY
| VERSION | DATE | CHANGE |
|---|
| v2.3 | 02.09.2026 | Reissued on the current Germa-Tech technical data sheet format. New in this issue: a quick-reference card, the hardener and reducer selection gauge, the coating thickness stack, the recoat-window recovery procedure, and a product-specific troubleshooting table. Bake schedules are now stated as metal temperature. |
18CARE OF THE COATING
CARE OF THE COATING — CONDITIONS OF THE WARRANTYFirst 12 weeks: hand wash only, pH-neutral automotive wash, soft mitt; no machine or brush washes, no wax, polish or cutting, no car covers; never leave fuel, brake fluid or water spotting to sit. No ceramic, glass/quartz coating or paint protection film for 12 months — sealing a maturing film traps solvent. Contaminants: bird and bat droppings, sap, insect residue, fuel and fallout etch the film — remove as soon as seen; etching left on is damage, not a defect. Cleaning: pH-neutral shampoo and fresh-water rinse; never dishwashing detergent, household cleaners, abrasive pads or strong solvents on the cured paint film; pressure washers fan tip, 30 cm minimum, never at edges or chips. Wash-down: passenger vehicles at least fortnightly (weekly in coastal, industrial or high-fallout exposure); fleet units weekly, more in heavy work, with a monthly walk-around and a wash-down register; any vehicle immediately after salt, fertiliser, chemicals, concrete dust, fuel or fallout; architectural and stationary work every 3 months (monthly coastal/industrial) with a maintenance register. Wax and polymer sealants may go on from 12 weeks, once cured. Breaches: inspect and touch up promptly — corrosion from any chip, scratch or breach, repaired or not, is never a coating defect.
19WARRANTY & FURTHER INFORMATION
TALK TO US — WE MEAN ITWe are always happy to talk to customers who contact us directly. If anything on this sheet does not fit the job in front of you — an unusual substrate, a tight timeline, a cold morning, a window you have missed — call before you spray, not after.
support@amproaustralia.com · germatech.com.au This sheet is read together with the GERMA-TECH APPLICATION STANDARD (terms, conditions of application and warranty) and the Coating Thickness Guide — both hosted with the data sheets and at germatech.com.au. Warranty is conditional on correct use of the product as described on this sheet, including the sanding steps and grits in its sanding guide, within the Germa-Tech system. The information in this data sheet is given in good faith and is based on laboratory and field testing. Ampro Australia has no control over the conditions under which this product is used, so the end user must satisfy themselves that the product is suitable for the intended application and conditions. All times are quoted at 20 °C and 50% relative humidity unless stated otherwise. This sheet supersedes all previous issues.
